Do You Have Whiteheads or Blackheads​ (Or Both)? Know the Difference and Treatment for Each

Whiteheads and blackheads are two of the most common skin concerns many people deal with, often falling under the broader term of “clogged pores.” While these small bumps may look similar at first glance, they’re actually different types of comedones—non-inflammatory acne caused by a buildup of dead skin cells, oil, and bacteria. Understanding the differences between whiteheads vs blackheads is essential for choosing the right treatments, especially if you want clearer, smoother skin without causing irritation or damage.

Whiteheads vs Blackheads: What’s the Difference?

Whiteheads and blackheads are essentially the result of our pores getting clogged with excess oil, dead skin cells, and sometimes bacteria. While this sounds straightforward, the underlying reasons for why these pores clog—and why certain people seem more prone to them than others—can be surprisingly complex. Understanding these root causes can help manage and even prevent these types of acne over the long term.

Whiteheads are closed comedones. In these, the pore remains sealed, trapping sebum (oil) and dead skin cells beneath the surface. This gives whiteheads their characteristic small, white, or flesh-colored appearance. Since they’re not exposed to air, they stay light in color and are often small and slightly raised.

Blackheads, on the other hand, are open comedones. In this case, the pore is open to the air, allowing the trapped sebum and skin cells to oxidize, turning a dark color. This is what gives blackheads their black or dark brown appearance. Although they can look like dirt trapped in the pore, the dark color is actually due to oxidation rather than dirt.

The Role of Sebum in the Development of Whiteheads and Blackheads

Sebum, or oil, is naturally produced by our sebaceous glands to keep skin hydrated and protected. However, if you have an overactive sebaceous gland, your skin may produce excess oil, making it more likely for pores to become clogged. This production can vary widely from person to person due to skin type, with oily and combination skin types often experiencing more blackheads and whiteheads than those with dry skin.

However, dry skin isn’t immune. When skin becomes dehydrated, it can sometimes overcompensate by producing even more sebum, leading to clogged pores despite an overall dry complexion. This is why even people with dry skin might deal with clogged pores, especially if they aren’t moisturizing properly or using hydrating skincare ingredients.

Hormonal Changes and Imbalances

Hormones are a significant factor in sebum production. During puberty, the body experiences a surge in androgens (male hormones like testosterone) that cause an increase in oil production. This can explain why teenagers are especially prone to whiteheads and blackheads. Hormonal changes don’t stop there, though—many people experience similar shifts during menstruation, pregnancy, or menopause, which can lead to fluctuating oil levels and, consequently, more clogged pores. In these cases, you may notice that blackheads and whiteheads are particularly stubborn in areas like the chin and jawline, as these areas are more susceptible to hormonal fluctuations.

Chronic hormonal imbalances can also play a role. For instance, people with polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) or high levels of stress might see an increase in both whiteheads and blackheads as their bodies respond by producing more sebum.

Diet and Inflammation

The relationship between diet and skin health is complex, but research suggests that certain dietary choices can make people more prone to acne, including whiteheads and blackheads. High-glycemic foods like sweets, refined carbohydrates, and sugary drinks can lead to blood sugar spikes. When blood sugar spikes, insulin levels rise, which can indirectly stimulate oil production and, as a result, more clogged pores. Dairy, particularly milk, has also been linked to acne for some individuals due to its potential hormone content, which may interact with your body’s own hormones, increasing sebum production.

A diet rich in processed foods may also lead to inflammation throughout the body, including the skin. Inflammation can make the skin more reactive, which may worsen the likelihood of clogged pores and exacerbate existing acne.

Related: Best Acne Patches

Environmental Factors and Lifestyle

Our environment plays a huge role in how our skin behaves. High humidity levels can make the skin sweat more, which can combine with natural oils and dead skin cells to clog pores. Pollution, dust, and other environmental impurities can settle on the skin’s surface, contributing to clogged pores and making whiteheads and blackheads more likely.

Lifestyle habits like smoking are also connected to clogged pores. Smoking reduces oxygen flow to the skin, which can weaken its structure and interfere with natural exfoliation. This buildup can make it easier for pores to clog, potentially leading to both whiteheads and blackheads. Additionally, touching your face frequently, whether consciously or not, can transfer dirt, bacteria, and oils from your hands to your face, which can clog pores, particularly in areas like the forehead, nose, and chin.

Skincare Products and Practices

The wrong skincare products, or overuse of certain products, can contribute to clogged pores. Heavy, oil-based products, especially those not labeled as “non-comedogenic,” can trap oils and dead skin cells in the pores, leading to whiteheads and blackheads. Even beneficial products, if used improperly, can lead to clogging; over-exfoliation, for example, may strip the skin of natural oils, prompting it to produce more oil to compensate. This imbalance in the skin’s barrier can create the perfect conditions for clogged pores.

Some acne treatments, like salicylic acid and retinoids, are highly effective at keeping pores clear, but if they’re used incorrectly or with too high of a concentration, they can irritate the skin. This irritation can lead to redness, dryness, and, paradoxically, more clogged pores as the skin responds by producing extra oil. Knowing the right balance and frequency of use for each product can make a difference in preventing both blackheads and whiteheads.

How to Identify Whiteheads vs. Blackheads on Your Skin

Whiteheads are usually small, round, and slightly raised but smooth to the touch. They’re often concentrated in oily areas like the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) but can appear anywhere. Blackheads, in contrast, have a dark “plug” and are usually flat against the skin. They’re also common in oily areas and can form in clusters, especially on the nose and chin.

Treatments for Whiteheads

Whiteheads require specific treatments that keep the pores clear and prevent clogging. Here are some of the most effective treatments for managing and preventing whiteheads:

1. Retinoids for Skin Renewal

Retinoids are powerful in promoting cell turnover, which makes them ideal for addressing whiteheads. By encouraging the skin to shed its dead cells more effectively, retinoids prevent cells from trapping sebum and bacteria. Prescription-strength options like tretinoin are effective for moderate to severe cases, while over-the-counter retinol products can be useful for milder cases or sensitive skin. Retinoids also help to improve skin texture over time, giving it a smoother, even appearance while keeping pores clearer.

2. Salicylic Acid for Deeper Exfoliation

Salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), penetrates oil and reaches deep within the pore, making it particularly effective against whiteheads. It’s an oil-soluble acid, which means it can penetrate sebum and clear out dead skin cells and excess oil from within. Using a salicylic acid cleanser or a topical solution a few times a week can help prevent whitehead formation by exfoliating deeper into the pore. Additionally, salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory properties, which can soothe any underlying irritation without stripping the skin.

3. Benzoyl Peroxide to Reduce Bacteria

Though benzoyl peroxide is typically associated with treating inflamed acne, it can be effective for whiteheads as well. It has antibacterial properties that help reduce the bacterial load on the skin, reducing the likelihood that a whitehead will turn into an inflamed blemish. For treating whiteheads, lower concentrations (such as 2.5% or 5%) are usually sufficient to prevent irritation and dryness. Benzoyl peroxide can be especially effective when combined with other treatments, such as salicylic acid or retinoids, but be sure to consult with a dermatologist about any combination treatments to avoid over-irritating the skin.

4. AHA Exfoliants for Surface-Level Clogging

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), like glycolic or lactic acid, work on the skin’s surface to exfoliate dead cells that may contribute to clogging pores. AHAs also improve skin texture by smoothing out rough patches that can trap debris. While AHAs don’t penetrate as deeply as BHAs, they’re useful in dissolving surface-level impurities and dead skin cells that might contribute to whitehead formation. AHAs can be incorporated into a nighttime routine as a serum or used in a peel for occasional exfoliation.

5. Non-Comedogenic Moisturizers

Hydration is essential, but using the wrong type of moisturizer can aggravate whiteheads. Opt for lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizers to keep skin hydrated without clogging pores. Moisturizers containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin provide hydration without adding oil, which is crucial for keeping pores clear. Gel-based or water-based moisturizers tend to be the best for preventing whiteheads, particularly in those with oily or acne-prone skin.

6. Avoiding Certain Ingredients

Whitehead-prone skin can react negatively to heavy oils or occlusive ingredients. Avoid ingredients like mineral oil, lanolin, and cocoa butter, as these can trap sebum and dead cells in the pores. Instead, look for products labeled “non-comedogenic” or those containing oil-balancing ingredients, like niacinamide or tea tree oil, which help regulate sebum production without clogging pores.

Treatments for Blackheads

Treating blackheads requires a focus on products that can keep pores open and prevent oxidation. Here are effective ways to treat blackheads and reduce their appearance:

1. Chemical Exfoliants with BHA

Blackheads are often deeply rooted, so using an exfoliant that can penetrate oil is essential. Salicylic acid, a BHA, is effective because it can dissolve the sebum inside the pores. BHA products, whether in cleansers, toners, or serums, are particularly beneficial for blackheads because they help keep pores clear over time. For persistent blackheads, a leave-on BHA product applied directly to the affected areas can be more effective than a rinse-off product.

2. Retinoids to Prevent Future Blockages

Retinoids don’t only help with whiteheads—they’re also effective for blackheads. They work by increasing cell turnover and reducing the likelihood of blockages, making them useful in preventing new blackheads from forming. By encouraging the skin to renew itself more quickly, retinoids help keep pores clear of debris. Prescription options like adapalene or tretinoin may be especially helpful for those with stubborn blackheads.

3. Clay Masks to Absorb Excess Oil

Clay masks, such as those containing kaolin or bentonite, are highly effective in drawing out oil and impurities from deep within the pores. Used once or twice a week, clay masks can help reduce the appearance of blackheads by keeping excess sebum under control. These masks work by absorbing oil, which helps reduce the clogging that can lead to blackheads. Clay masks are best applied to oily areas, like the T-zone, rather than the entire face if you have combination skin.

4. Niacinamide for Oil Regulation

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a beneficial ingredient for those prone to blackheads. It helps regulate oil production while also reducing the size of the pores, making it harder for blackheads to form. Niacinamide is non-irritating and can be used alongside other active ingredients, making it a versatile addition to any skincare routine for blackhead prevention. Using a moisturizer or serum containing niacinamide can also help calm any redness associated with blackhead extraction.

5. Extractions with Professional Care

Sometimes, blackheads may need to be manually extracted by a licensed esthetician or dermatologist. While DIY extraction tools are available, it’s easy to damage the skin or cause infection if done incorrectly. Professional extractions can help remove stubborn blackheads without the risk of skin damage, but this method should be used sparingly, as frequent extractions can damage pores and worsen blackheads over time.

6. Glycolic Acid for Surface Renewal

Glycolic acid, an AHA, can be beneficial for blackheads by helping to smooth out the skin’s surface and reduce the build-up of dead skin cells around pores. While glycolic acid doesn’t penetrate as deeply as salicylic acid, it’s effective in reducing blockages that can lead to blackheads. This is especially helpful for those who have a mix of whiteheads and blackheads, as glycolic acid can address both surface congestion and pore-clogging issues.

7. Use of Oil-Based Cleansers

Using oil-based cleansers may sound counterintuitive for treating blackheads, but they’re useful in dissolving makeup, sunscreen, and excess oil. The “like dissolves like” principle helps to break down oil-based impurities that might clog pores. Follow up with a water-based cleanser to completely remove any residue, leaving skin clean without stripping its natural oils. This double-cleansing approach can reduce the buildup in pores that contribute to blackheads.

8. Avoiding Occlusive Skincare and Makeup Products

Blackheads can be exacerbated by certain skincare and makeup products, especially those that contain occlusive ingredients like petroleum jelly or heavy silicones. Choosing non-comedogenic, breathable makeup and skincare products can reduce the chance of clogging pores. For makeup, consider lighter, oil-free foundations or BB creams that don’t trap oil within pores.

Common Mistakes in Treating Whitehead and Blackhead

It’s tempting to want immediate results, but patience is key with skin care, especially when it comes to treating whiteheads and blackheads. Here are some tips to avoid common pitfalls:

Don’t over-exfoliate: Over-exfoliating can damage the skin’s natural barrier and cause irritation. Stick to a balanced routine with mild exfoliants, using stronger treatments sparingly.

Avoid pore strips for regular use: While pore strips can give quick results, they don’t address the underlying cause and can sometimes enlarge pores if used too frequently. They’re best reserved for occasional use.

Avoid picking or squeezing: Picking at whiteheads or blackheads can introduce bacteria into the pore, leading to inflammation or even scarring. Let your products do the work to clear them out over time.