Cosmetic Chemist Explains Why People Are Quitting Tretinoin

Tretinoin, often hailed as the gold standard in skincare, has long been recommended for its proven efficacy in treating acne, evening out pigmentation, and reducing fine lines. But despite its reputation, many users—both casual skincare enthusiasts and professionals—are stepping away from it. Cosmetic chemist Michelle Wong offers a detailed and scientific perspective on the challenges associated with Tretinoin and other retinoids, as well as their formulation, efficacy, and drawbacks.

What Are Retinoids?

Michelle Wong emphasizes that retinoids, including Tretinoin, are highly effective because they work directly with retinoid receptors in the skin. “Retinoids are like keys that fit into locks—retinoid receptors—which then trigger multiple beneficial effects,” she explains. These effects include unclogging pores, normalizing pigmentation, and increasing collagen production, which strengthens the dermis.

However, not all retinoids are created equal. Drug retinoids like Tretinoin undergo rigorous testing for efficacy and stability. “You can’t just dump 0.05% Tretinoin into a random moisturizer and expect it to work as well as a regulated drug product,” she notes. This is because drug formulations are designed to ensure the active ingredient penetrates deep into the skin, reaching the retinoid receptors where it can make a difference.

This rigorous formulation process is backed by studies that demonstrate bioequivalence, ensuring that both brand-name and generic drug products deliver the same results. Wong highlights that such guarantees are largely absent in cosmetic retinoids, where efficacy can vary significantly based on formulation.

Why Tretinoin Isn’t Always the Best Option

Wong emphasizes that irritation is the main reason people quit Tretinoin. “Barrier disruption is a huge issue, especially if your skin isn’t healthy to begin with,” she says. She adds that Tretinoin’s lack of flexibility in formulation exacerbates this problem.

Cosmetic retinoids, while weaker, are often formulated with soothing ingredients to reduce irritation. Wong explains, “These products can act as self-limiting, time-release versions of Tretinoin, which makes them more forgiving if overused.” For those new to retinoids or with sensitive skin, starting with a cosmetic product might be a better option.

Beauty influencer Abbey Yung’s experience supports this point. After years of consistent use, she found her skin becoming increasingly reactive, particularly when experimenting with new products. “I started applying more Tretinoin to areas breaking out, hoping it would fix the problem faster. Big mistake,” she admits. This common tendency to overuse strong retinoids often exacerbates issues like peeling, redness, and sensitivity.

Drug Vs. Cosmetic Retinoids

Despite its scientifically proven benefits, Tretinoin isn’t without its challenges. Wong explains that its primary drawback is its potential to cause irritation. “Tretinoin directly activates receptors without a buffering system, meaning it’s less forgiving if overused,” she says. Unlike cosmetic retinoids, which convert into Tretinoin more gradually, drug retinoids lack a reversible pathway, making them harsher on the skin.

One of the most significant advantages of drug retinoids is their stability. “Manufacturers must ensure that the active ingredient remains stable throughout the product’s shelf life, provided users follow storage instructions,” Wong explains. This stability is critical for retinoids, which are notoriously unstable and prone to degradation.

In contrast, cosmetic retinoids often lack this level of quality control. Studies have shown that many over-the-counter retinoid products lose potency within months of opening. “A lot of the retinoids in these products were half gone six months after opening,” she notes.

Even compounded formulations, which promise customization, fall short in this area. These blends often lack the rigorous testing required for drug products. “The efficacy and stability of compounded retinoids are almost always worse than off-the-shelf drug retinoids,” Wong says. This limitation can leave users with less effective—and potentially more irritating—products.

Why Formulation Matters More Than Percentage

A common misconception in skincare is that higher percentages of active ingredients automatically translate to better results. Wong dismantles this myth, explaining that a poorly formulated product with a high percentage of retinol can be far less effective than a lower-percentage product with a well-designed base.

“People focus too much on percentages, but the formulation determines how well the active ingredient penetrates the skin and stays stable,” she explains. This insight is crucial for anyone weighing the pros and cons of cosmetic versus drug retinoids.

Abbey Yung’s reliance on teledermatology services like Curology and Apostrophe highlights this issue. While these services offer convenience and customization, Wong points out that their compounded formulas often lack the optimization found in pre-packaged drug products.

Sometimes You Need More

For many, Tretinoin doesn’t work as a standalone solution. Hormonal acne, for example, often requires additional treatments like Spironolactone or hormonal birth control. And while Tretinoin is effective at fading discoloration and reducing breakouts, it doesn’t address deeper triggers like inflammation or hormonal imbalances.

Abbey Yung experienced this firsthand. “Tretinoin helped a lot,” she says, “but I always needed something extra to feel like my acne was fully under control.” This is a common sentiment among users who find that Tretinoin alone isn’t enough to meet their skin’s evolving needs.

For those stepping away from Tretinoin, there are plenty of other options. Adapalene (like Differin) is a gentler retinoid available over the counter, making it a popular choice for people looking to minimize irritation. For more targeted treatments, Tazarotene, a third-generation retinoid, is another alternative that’s gaining traction.

Additionally, non-retinoid options like azelaic acid and niacinamide can address acne and hyperpigmentation without the harsh side effects. Many users find success with a combination of gentler ingredients that are easier to incorporate into their routines.