Is It Too Late for Beach Wave Perm? We Don’t Think So

The concept of the beach wave perm is like an old song that suddenly feels new again. It’s a revival of a hairstyle trend that’s been given a fresh, modern spin. This isn’t the crunchy, spiral-laden perm your mom might have rocked in the ’80s. The beach wave perm is softer, more natural, and refreshingly modern. But before you book that salon appointment, there’s a lot to unpack about the process, who it works for, and how to keep those waves looking their best for as long as possible.

What Is a Beach Wave Perm?

At its core, a beach wave perm is a chemical treatment designed to restructure the bonds in your hair, leaving you with loose, effortless waves instead of tight, defined curls. The process still involves rods, chemicals, and a bit of heat, but the tools and techniques are much gentler than the traditional perms of the past.

Unlike the rigid rods used in the ’80s, beach wave perms rely on soft, sponge-like rollers that create a more natural shape. These rollers, paired with modern formulas like the ammonia-free Arrojo American Waving Solution, ensure that the treatment doesn’t leave your hair smelling like a science experiment. The result? Hair that looks like it’s been kissed by saltwater and sun, minus the dryness that usually comes with actual beach days.

Who Should Consider Getting a Beach Wave Perm?

The beach wave perm is ideal for people with thick, coarse, or straight hair that needs a bit of texture and movement. If your hair tends to fall flat no matter how much mousse you use or how many hours you spend with a curling iron, this might be the solution you’ve been waiting for.

That said, it’s not the best option for everyone. If your hair is fine, bleached, or overly processed, you may want to reconsider. Perm chemicals can be harsh, and fragile hair might not handle the treatment well, leading to damage or breakage. Before committing, consult with your stylist—they can assess your hair’s condition and help you decide if this is the right move.

The Cost of a Beach Wave Perm

Here’s the part that might make you pause: beach wave perms aren’t exactly cheap. Depending on the salon and your stylist’s expertise, you’re looking at $400–$600 for the treatment.

But before you balk at the price, consider the time and effort you’ll save in your daily routine. If you’re someone who curls their hair regularly, a perm can be a game-changer, sparing you from daily heat styling and giving you more time to hit snooze in the morning.

The Process

A beach wave perm might sound intimidating at first—after all, it involves chemicals, heat, and a decent chunk of time at the salon. But the process is actually pretty straightforward when you break it down, and knowing what to expect can make it feel a little less daunting. Here’s how it typically unfolds:

1. Consultation

Before anything happens, your stylist will likely sit you down to chat about your hair type, what you’re looking for, and whether a beach wave perm is the right choice for you. If your hair is heavily bleached, super fine, or damaged, they might recommend some treatments to strengthen it first. The consultation is also where you’ll discuss the size and type of waves you want. Loose, barely-there ripples? A tighter, more defined curl? Your stylist will tailor the process to your goals.

2. Prep Work

Once everything’s decided, your stylist will start by giving your hair a good wash to strip away any oils or product buildup that could interfere with the perm solution. If your hair needs a trim or a few layers to help the waves sit better, they’ll take care of that now too. Layers can make a huge difference in how the final look turns out, especially if you want soft, flowing waves that don’t feel heavy.

3. Sectioning and Rolling

This is where things start to get technical. Your stylist will divide your hair into sections using zigzag partings to avoid any harsh lines where the curls begin. Each section is then wrapped around soft, sponge-like rods (not the hard plastic ones you might remember from ’80s perms). The size of the rod is crucial—larger rods create looser, more relaxed waves, while smaller ones give you tighter, bouncier curls.

If you have longer hair, your stylist may use larger rods toward the ends and slightly smaller ones closer to the roots to ensure the waves look balanced and natural. For shorter hair, tighter rods might be the way to go to ensure the curls actually take shape.

4. Application of the Perm Solution

With your hair securely wrapped around the rods, your stylist will apply the perm solution. This is the part that restructures the bonds in your hair, allowing it to take on the shape of the rods. The solution smells a lot better than the old-school perms (no rotten egg vibes here), but it’s still a chemical process, so your stylist will work quickly and precisely to make sure everything’s even.

Depending on your hair’s thickness and how well it takes to the solution, you’ll sit with it on for about 20 to 25 minutes. Some stylists might use a heat lamp or hooded dryer during this step to help the solution penetrate more effectively, especially if your hair is thicker or coarse.

5. Rinsing and Neutralizing

Once the processing time is up, your hair will be thoroughly rinsed with warm water to remove the perm solution. This step is key—it ensures that the chemical process stops so your hair doesn’t become over-processed.

After rinsing, your stylist will apply a neutralizer, which works to “set” the new wave pattern in place. This step usually takes another five to ten minutes, and then it’s back to the sink for a final rinse.

6. Rod Removal and Conditioning

Here comes the fun part: seeing your new waves for the first time. The rods are gently removed, and your hair is conditioned to restore some of the moisture lost during the chemical process. This is also when your stylist might apply some curl-enhancing products to define the waves and reduce frizz.

7. Styling the Final Look

To finish, your stylist will either air-dry your hair or use a diffuser to bring out the waves. This step is all about showcasing the results, so they’ll likely scrunch in a bit of mousse or styling cream to enhance the texture. If you’re curious about how to style your hair at home, this is the time to ask for tips. Most stylists are more than happy to walk you through which products to use and how to work with your new texture.

How Long Does a Beach Wave Perm Last?

If you’re wondering how long you can enjoy those carefree waves, the answer is about three to four months. The semi-permanent nature of the treatment means it gradually fades as your hair grows out, so you won’t have to worry about harsh lines or awkward transitions.

It’s worth noting that the waves will appear tighter in the first couple of weeks and gradually relax over time. For some, this natural loosening phase is actually the sweet spot, where the waves look the most effortless and lived-in.

Maintenance and Care

A beach wave perm is as low-maintenance as far as hair treatments go, but that doesn’t mean you can completely set it and forget it. Like any hair transformation, your waves need a little TLC to keep them looking fresh, defined, and healthy. The key here is learning to work with your new texture instead of fighting it. Here’s what to expect when it comes to maintaining your beach wave perm.

The First Few Days Are Crucial

Right after your perm, your stylist will probably give you one piece of golden advice: don’t wash your hair for at least 48 hours. It’s tempting to jump in the shower and start styling right away, but this waiting period is critical for allowing the waves to fully set. Washing too soon can loosen the curl pattern and undo the hard work your stylist put in.

Sweat, humidity, or even tying your hair back tightly can also mess with your waves during this time. If you absolutely must pull your hair back, go for a loose scrunchie or clip, but try to leave it down as much as possible. Think of these first two days as the honeymoon phase—you just need to let your waves settle in.

A Gentle Touch Goes a Long Way

Once you’re in the clear to wash your hair, it’s time to rethink your shampoo and conditioner lineup. Sulfate- and sodium chloride-free formulas are your best friends here. Why? Sulfates can strip your hair of moisture, leaving your curls dry and frizzy, while sodium chloride (often found in shampoos marketed as “volumizing”) can weaken the bonds in your hair, causing the waves to fall out faster.

If you’re looking for a solid option, a curl-friendly line like OGX Coconut Curls or SheaMoisture’s Curl & Shine Shampoo will help keep your hair hydrated and bouncy. And when it comes to washing, remember: less is more. Permed hair thrives on natural oils, so washing every three to four days is ideal.

Styling

Permed hair comes with one undeniable perk: it’s already styled when you wake up. That said, a few simple tweaks can take your waves from “bedhead” to “effortlessly chic.”

Start by scrunching in a leave-in curl cream or lightweight mousse while your hair is still damp. Garnier’s Curl Nourish Butter Cream or Bumble and Bumble’s Curl Defining Cream are popular choices because they enhance the wave pattern without weighing your hair down. If you prefer a more natural look, you can let your hair air-dry, but a diffuser attachment on your blow dryer will add extra volume and definition if that’s what you’re after.

Avoid brushing your hair when it’s dry—this is non-negotiable. A wide-tooth comb or even just your fingers are all you need to detangle when your hair is wet. Brushing out dry waves is a surefire way to create frizz and disrupt the curl pattern.

For extra definition, you can also try a quick refresh between washes. Keep a spray bottle filled with water and a tiny bit of conditioner on hand. A quick spritz and scrunch can bring tired waves back to life without needing to rewash.

Sleeping with Your New Beach Wave Perm

Sleeping with permed hair can be a bit of a learning curve, but the goal is to protect the wave pattern while preventing tangles. For starters, ditch your cotton pillowcase and switch to silk or satin. These fabrics reduce friction, which means less frizz and fewer knots when you wake up.

If you have longer hair, try loosely twisting it into a bun or clipping it up with a butterfly clip before bed. This keeps your waves intact without putting too much tension on your roots. Avoid wrapping your hair in a tight towel or turban overnight; it might sound like a good idea, but it can flatten your waves and cause breakage.

Keeping Your Waves Hydrated

The perming process involves chemicals that can strip some of your hair’s natural moisture, so adding hydration back into your routine is non-negotiable. Deep conditioning treatments once a week will help keep your waves soft and bouncy. Look for hair masks with ingredients like argan oil, shea butter, or aloe vera—anything that’s rich in moisture without being too heavy.

If your ends start feeling particularly dry or crisp, a little bit of hair oil can work wonders. Just a drop or two of Moroccanoil or Olaplex No.7 Bonding Oil can add shine and smoothness without making your hair look greasy.

Is Beach Wave Perm Worth It?

The beach wave perm isn’t just a hairstyle—it’s a lifestyle upgrade for anyone craving low-maintenance, high-impact hair. It’s perfect for those with straight, heavy hair who want to add some movement and texture without daily effort.

While the upfront cost and chemical process may give you pause, the ease of styling and long-lasting results make it a worthy investment for many. Just be sure to consult with your stylist beforehand to ensure your hair is healthy enough to handle the treatment.

For anyone dreaming of that windswept, just-back-from-the-beach look, the beach wave perm is the answer. It’s the modern reinvention of a classic trend, blending nostalgia with today’s need for effortless beauty. And honestly, who wouldn’t want hair that practically styles itself?